Fields: Best grapes for garden arbor?
| Grapes - How do I maintain grapes?
| preparation of vines at planting
| Grape variety
| Scuppernong grapes
| Help with grapevine fungus/mould...
| pruning grapes
From: email@example.com (David Roseman)
Subject: Best grapes for garden arbor?
We are in No. VA. (zone 7). We have an arbor at the end of our large garden (full sun) and would like to train producing grape vines on it to create a canopy. Last spring we planted two seeded Concord grape plants, but the long summer with little rain and inadequate watering seems to have done them in. We'd like to try again, but have heard that to ensure fruit production, most grape vines must be pruned back severely each season. Three questions: Is it practical to think that vines planted to create a canopy over a tall arbor will produce much fruit? Is there a special trick to pruning such vines to achieve both goals? Is there a type of grape better suited to this purpose than seeded Concords? Maybe we should just settle for wisteria.
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (LMvine)
Subject: Re: Best grapes for garden arbor?
Concord is a good grower but with any grape it is fruit (prune) or vine growth.
Depending on your use one native VA grape that might do well is Norton. It has an interesting history. Horton winery uses in some of their red wines. Dan
From: email@example.com (Mlatanzio)
Subject: Grapes - How do I maintain grapes?
Mt father-in-law had beautiul red grapes last year in NJ. He wants to know when he should trim branches and if he should fertilize. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
From: "Don Chapman" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: Grapes - How do I maintain grapes?
For truly expert advice on grapes, try Lon Rombough <email@example.com>.
He is an author on the topic, and also propagates several dozen varieties for sale, including many rare and unusual types.
In general, grapes are pruned during the winter months and need very little fertilizer beyond mulching with compost. You can harm the crop by applying too much nitrogen.
Don Chapman <firstname.lastname@example.org> Bio/Organics Supply Center 3200 Corte Malpaso, #107 Camarillo CA 93012 (Near ocean N. of LA) <http://www.bio-organics.com>
Subject: preparation of vines at planting
Recently I read two schools of thought on preparation of vines.
When preparing bare rooted stock one source "From Vines to Wines" says: "Unwrap the plants and soak the roots in a bucket of water at least 6 but not more than 12 hours, then plant.
On the other hand, another source, "Growing Grapes in Minnesota" says: "Never store bare-root vines in water more than 3 or 4 hours since roots need aeration."
Unless I'm missing something here there seems to be a slight contradiction in instructions.
Can anyone with experience planting bare-rooted stock clarify the ideal soaking time in water before planting?
From: "NomDeNette" <ZenKoan@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Grape variety
Everything which Rett said is basically right on target. A little more info on DeChaunac is:
-It is a black fruited, red wine making French hybrid grape. Its technical name is "Seibel 9549".
-It has above average climate adaptation for Ohio winters.
-It is a mid-season grape with approximately a 105 day period from bloom to harvest.
-Because it is mid-season, it can be grown in areas with relatively short growing seasons (135-155 days).
-Its principal use is to make red wine (as a blending wine).
-The vine displays good vigor, hardiness & desirable growth habits.
-Here in Ohio, the vine is only slightly susceptible to black rot & botryis, while it is moderately susceptible to downey mildew & highly susceptible to powdery mildew. Moreover; some DeChaunac in Ohio have displayed sulfur sensitivity.
Finally; and most importantly, the wine it produces is merely average & should be used as part of a blend.
If you are pleagued by a short growing season (like Me!!) of 150 days or less, you might want to consider planting the DeChaunac along with a few vines from the other early-mid season French Hybrids (Baco Noir [Baco #1], Marechal Foch [Kuhlman 188-2], Landal [Landot 244], Leon Millot [Kuhlman 194-2]).
Of these; Baco Noir & Leon Millot are said to have the highest overall wine quality potential.
A blend of DeChaunac, Baco Noir & Leon Millot probably gives the short season grower a chance to optimize the quality of his/her wine.
Finally, as Rett said, be sure to talk to the wine growers & Ag agents in your area.
Additionally; as Rett said; Chambourcin (Joannes - Seyve 26.205) is regarded as the PREMIERE French hybrid in terms of quality. However; it requires a growing season of about 170 days & its "ripeness window" (The window within which it must be picked to make a fine wine) is very short.
If your growing season is long enough & you are not intimidated by the short ripeness window, then Chambourcin may be the way to go.
Good luck & keep us posted!
P.S.: I can tell you this; If I lived just a little closer to Lake Erie, grafted Chambourcin would be the vine for me!
From: Muscadines&wine @noware.net
Subject: Re: Scuppernong grapes
On Tue, 18 Aug 1998 23:01:22 -0400, "Rilo" <rowe@infoaveREMOVE.net> wrote:
>Then how do you tell a scuppernong from a bronze muscadine?
Good question how to tell the differance. By taste of a known berry is about the only way. The size of the Scuppernong is around 1 inch and the color is bronze when mature. Some people have a Higgins Muscadine that is sometimes mistaken for a Scuppernong but the Higgins has a pink to reddish bronze color when muture. Bronze muscadines close to Scuppernong the same fruit size : standard varieties Tara, Triumph are two of many Bronze Muscadines. If you can look up the Isons web site. www.Isons.com it has a lot of good information. If you need any more information you can Email me . most people here like to talk wine not grapes.
Mark H. To email send to Huffman add a S to end @backroads dot net don't send spam
From: email@example.com (Jeff Jernegan)
Subject: Re: Help with grapevine fungus/mould...
"Colin Radford" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
>Can anyone direct me to a newsgroup or resources which could help me
>identify and treat a mould growing on our table grapes (Black Muscats). It
>also has produced a bubble-like appearance on the upper parts of the leaves,
>caused by a mildew underneath. Any suggestions?
Having just returned from trellis work in below-freezing weather (but it wasn't raining at least), and dodging snow flurries homeward, I was amused at your message - my first thought was WHERE is anyone growing grapes in December. Before I even read your .au address, I had remembered there is a world below the equator.
I don't have access to the disease reference books I use, so I can't answer your question directly.
But there is a sizeable grape-growers' e-mail list called VITICULTURE, made up of growers or teachers. I'm sure someone could help. To subscribe, send an e-mail message to LISTSERV@MAIL.ORST.EDU and in the first line of the message say SUBSCRIBE VITICULTURE In due course you will receive acknowledgement of your joining the list and then you can post you message to the different server address they give you.
Jeff Jernegan Maury Island Vineyards
Please send e-mail replies to address below
From: "Paul Jean Jr." <email@example.com>
Subject: Re: Help with grapevine fungus/mould...
Send a sample leaf to a viticulture institute at a university such as in Geneva NY or at UC Davis in California and ask them for help. Be sure to place the leaf in a sealed bag (like ZIP-LOCK and protect it with a bubble wrap envelope. Another way would be to take a picture of the infected leaf, have it scanned and post on this newsgroup. Someone might recognize the problem. Good Luck
Paul Jean Jr.
From: "John & Leanna Kremor" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: pruning grapes
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:48:04 +1100
Ray Tayek wrote in message ...
>hi, i usually hear that one hould leave 3 "buds" when pruning grapes. but i seem to recall a
>post that said if they are tompson seedles leave more (like 8 or 10)? i have some concord,
>tomson seedless, perlette, white concord, seedless concord, red flame and maybe a muscat.
>Ray (will hack java for food) http://home.pacbell.net/rtayek/
Thompson seedless do not exhibit basal node fruitfulness, so they are not spur pruned but cane pruned, that is, full-length canes are wrapped down.
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