Fields: New Blueberry Grower
| Droopy Blueberry Bush
| Blueberry wine?
| Blueberry propagation
From: "Principal Skinner" <Skinner@ps101.springfield.org>
Subject: Re: New Blueberry Grower Sender:
Like Denise says, blueberries need acid soil. They sell little kits at Home Depot (or the like) for soil testing, they cost about 10-20 bucks - you dig a little dirt up from the spot you want to test, put it in a test tube with some water and a few drops of some testing chemicals, swirl it around, and then compare the color of the resulting mixture to a color strip. From the matching color, you can then follow recommendations for what amounts of nutrients you'd need to add to correct soil ph or netrient deficiencies.
If you don't want to deal with that just yet, I'd suggest getting some Muracid fertilizer for a quick fix. If you have pine needles on hand, they make a good mulch for blueberries, because they are acid-forming. You'll eventually want to amend the soil to give the blueberries a more permanent acidic environment - for mine I tilled in lots of peat moss (about 50-50 with soil for the top several inches). I've also heard that ammonium sulfate is a good fertililizer for blueberries (tons of nitrogen, so be careful, or you'll burn the plants). Unless of course you want to practice organic gardening, in which case ignore most of what I've said.
I doubt that too much sun would be the problem.
Brad Horstkotte berry nut
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (David in Alabama)
Subject: Droopy Blueberry Bush
Last weekend, I planted three blueberry bushes. One of the three looks great, one looks pretty good, and one is looking really droopy, with some leaf discoloration. These are older container-grown bushes that are bearing blueberries. I understand that bushes of this age can take awhile to overcome the transplant shock. Is this likely what is going on with the droopy one?? I don't believe soil acidity is a problem (North Alabama/Zone 7-- acid soil reigns supreme), although I plan to test it. We have been having some really hot, dry weather (unfortunately) also, so I'm afraid that I may be over-watering or underwatering. Any blueberry gurus who can provide advice??
-- David C. Ansardi email@example.com
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Joseph2644)
Subject: Re: Droopy Blueberry Bush
I have had blueberrys for several years now.They seem to really enjoy damp soil,with out getting their feet wet.I mean they seem to really enjoy being planted on a bank of a pond where the soil is always at least moist.I would water these new plants daily for a couple of weeks till they take. Get the soil tested as soon as possible,they love ACID soil,4.5 is not too acidic for them,I use a pound of sulfur each season,per plant,worked into the soil lightly and then watered in.Mulch with pine needles will also help keep soil acid. Last but not least,if leaves continue yellowing after all this,try a little chelated iron,like a Mutacid spray. Hope this helps.
From: "J.C. Fafard" <email@example.com>
Subject: Blueberry wine?
does any one know of a good Blueberry wine recipe?
curious in canada.
From: "Dewayne Parfit" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Subject: Re: Blueberry wine?
I have a blueberry wine on the go right now. My recipe calls for the following,
2 lbs Blueberries
1 lbs Pumpkin
1 Gal Water
3 lbs sugar or enough to get the S.G. to 1.085
2 Campden Tablets
1/2 tsp Super Yeast Nutrient
2 tsp Acid Blend
1/2 tsp Pectic Enzyme
1Pkg Yeast/5 gal of must
I find Pumpkin to be a good "filler" to any wine. You can use it to supplement a shortage of another kinf of fruit, or to add a slightly different flavour to any wine. Another fruit you could use in Rhubarb and it will add a wonderful flavour. Either of these, are also good on their own.
Hope you find this helpful,
From: email@example.com (Grasshopper -- Don Buchan)
Subject: Re: Blueberry wine?
>does any one know of a good Blueberry wine recipe?
From: firstname.lastname@example.org (yosef surez)
Subject: Re: Blueberry propagation
Blueberry can be propagated by hardwood cuttings or softwood. The method I have found most successful is to take dormant cuttings of last seasons growth just before they are due to come into leaf & strike them in a fog house with a 4000ppm IBA dip. They come into leaf & root at the same time & they can be potted within 4 - 6 weeks....If you are doing only small numbers a pot with a plastic bag over it & tied around will work almost as well.
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