Fields:
Mycorrhyze against juglone |
Clay Soil & Sand |
fireblight |
Gardening for wildlife
Keywords: Cherry | Walnut | Russian Olive
From: "dhs" <dhs@mit.edu>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.ecosystems
Subject: Mycorrhyze against juglone
Is it reasonable to think that adding mycorrhyze to the root system of an established ornamental cherry tree would help the tree combat the effects of juglone spread by a close by black walnut? The cherry is of a good size (I guess it was planted before the blach walnut became too big), but has fewer than normal leaves and flowers. It looks healthy otherwise.
Are fungi the solution? Lisa
*
From: Cangemi@ulster.net (Kay Cangemi)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.ecosystems
Subject: Re: Mycorrhyze against juglone
Cherry trees are notoriously short lived. Ornamental varieties are even worse. If it's a 'good sized tree' it simply may be coming to the end of its natural life. Our officially dead sweet cherry showed those symptoms. Now it has quite a few dead branches, and we will probably have to cut it down in a few years. The arborist gave it about 5 years a couple of years ago. We are prepared.
A couple of years ago we 'bought' an arborist at a horticultural auction. Nobody else wanted him so he went cheap. He came out to our house and did an evaluation of all of our trees. If you have trees, particularly older ones, I'd highly recommend having something like this done. After getting his advice, we now know which trees are here for the long haul and which ones we shouldn't get particularly attached to. We know the problems that our particular species are prone to, and how to deal with them. We learned that the white pines are planted much too close together, so I don't have to feel guilty about wanting them removed, and that pin oaks are prone to chlorosis here. We learned that the sapling growing on our back property line will grow into a fine hickory tree, and that the sugar maple in the front yard was somewhat root-bound and needed some work with a hammer and chisel.
A local arborist will have the great advantage of being able to inspect the trees in person and tell you exactly what shape *your* trees are in. A good nursery should be able to recommend one. Make sure he is certified. A good arborist shouldn't be in a big hurry to remove trees, but be more concerned with the overall health of the trees. Sometimes trees do need to come down, but hey, that' life.
-- Kay Cangemi New York, USDA zone 5
*
From: "Don Chapman" <don@bio-organics.com>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.ecosystems
Subject: Re: Mycorrhyze against juglone
It is unlikely that the adding of mycorrhizal inoculant will help your tree. Our USDA myco-experts have found that the best time to introduce these beneficials are at seeding or transplanting time. After that, you probably will not be able to bring in a new organism to an established underground ecosystem (but this has not really been tested thoroughly with multiple species of the myco).
The exceptions would be if an orchard or vineyard (or home tree) has been flooded for an extended period of time, which could greatly diminish the presence of aerobic microbes. Even then, the beneficials will eventually return to good populations, but until they do the trees and vines will be open to diseases.
For more information, see our Website. We also have a free printed catalog.
-- Don Chapman <don@bio-organics.com> Bio/Organics Supply Center 3200 Corte Malpaso, #107 Camarillo CA 93012 (Near ocean N. of LA) <http://www.bio-organics.com>
*
From: John Neale Baraclough <janet.and.john@zetnet.co.uk>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Clay Soil & Sand
The message <19981216202540.24453.00000286@ng-fu1.aol.com>
from chancey992@aol.comnospam (Chancey992) contains these words:
> The soil in the area here runs toward clay, and the area I have broken for a
> garden this Spring is no exception. I am planning on adding organic matter
> such as compost, old saw-dust, and hopefully manure as well as trace elements
> and fertilizer recomended by a soil test. Has anyone ever added sand to clay
> soils for easier working and more "air" and genareally better gardening soil?
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
> Phillip
> Central Alabama
Adding manure,compost and *rotted* sawdust will add humus to your soil; this enhances fertility first and then gradually improves the soil texture over years, making it more "open" to moisture and air and less likely to bake like a brick in summer or turn sticky in winter, both faults of clay.
Adding sand, or far better, fine sharp grit, will improve drainage and friability but make only a tiny contribution to fertility through small traces of minerals.I find this very well worth the effort on heavy soil.When we go to the freshwater loch (Lomond) I bring home a bag of beach grit. If we go to the sea I bring a bag of shell grit, source of calcium and lime for my acid soil. Just small quantities but over years it adds up.
If you are adding natural ingredients you should not need any artificial chemical fertilisers. Clay soil is very fertile (far more than sandy soils) once you can improve the texture so plants can make a fine root system.Surface mulches of comfrey, brown bracken,nettles, lawn clippings will conserve moisture, prevent surface hardening and be carried down by worms into the soil.(do you have nettles in America- well, some local weed, then.)
Good luck Janet
West Scotland
--
janet.and.john@zetnet.co.uk
*
From: drmoore@silvernet.net (Dennis R. Moore)
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Clay Soil & Sand
On Fri, 18 Dec 1998 18:28:41 -0800, madhouse <laruetine@earthlink.net> wrote:
>How does it work? If I add gypsum to my soil at the proper rate, will
>it resemble a soil model that can be found in nature? That is,
>somewhere on Earth that has both natural clay and natural gypsum, so
>that the soil ends up naturally crumbly. Can we assume that all crumbly
>soil contains the proper amount of gypsum? I remember reading recently
>that the gypsum needs to be replaced. What happens to it?
>
>Thanks,
>
>mh
Gypsum improves the structure and texture of sodic and saline clay soils by displacing sodium, lithium and\or potassium ions from the cation exchange sites. (There may be other salts involved in sodic and saline clay soils but I don't remember them. In any case, I believe that these are the most common.) After a period of time, especially where irrigation water containing these salts is used, the offending ions begin to re-occupy the cation exchange sites and the soil structure begins to deteriorate. Not all soils are sodic or saline in nature, therefore not all soils will respond to the application of gypsum (though gypsum does provide Calcium and Sulphur). In any case, soil management strategies on sodic and saline clays should include the addition of generous quantities of organic matter, pH correction (these soils are alkaline) and, where practical, the installation of sub-surface drainage.
Dennis R. Moore drmoore@silvernet.net This e-mail address belongs to a Washington State resident. Violators of Washington's commercial e-mail statutes are brought to the attention of the Attorney General's office.
*
From: Dan Feix <danf@gvii.net>
Newsgroups: rec.gardens.edible
Subject: Re: Clay Soil & Sand
The soil where I live in western Colorado is clay. I added some sand to a small plot to grow some carrots and it seemed to work ok, but it took a lot of sand and that cost more money than it was worth.
Clay soil can be very good soil. I would suggest you garden in beds, either raised or not. Till in organic matter in the spring. Don't walk on the beds. Don't use flood or ditch irrigation. Use lots of organic mulch and till it in in the fall. Most important is to not walk on the beds, leave a path between the beds and weed and harvest from there.
Good luck Dan
*
From: "Stefano" <stefano.n@database.it>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Subject: fireblight
In emilia-romagna area we have problems with pear's fire blight: i'm interested in resolution or suggestions to struggle this virus. At this moment my trees are safe and i'm interested also to prevent f.b. stefano.n@database.it
*
From: "Kevin P Bradley" <SILVANS@prodigy.net>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: fireblight
I recently visited a very large organic orchard and can only tell you what i learned from them as I have not had personal experience with fireblight. There is some controversy about this, because copper in large doses can be toxic to humans and the soil. But as most are probably aware, copper in small doses as a fungicide is accepted as an organic (biological) method. (ie Bordeax powder). The controversy arises concerning large doses of copper such as may be necessary to control the bacteria- fireblight (erwinia _______). However, this particular orchard has found that by using the maximum levels of copper, the highest allowable by organic standards, fireblight has been completely arrested the FOLLOWING year after spraying an infected tree. He said that the copper, sprayed on the dormant bark stays visible (a bluish green color) for years, protecting it from further infection (This I believe was after pruning out the infected branches) In a recently published book on organic orcharding, the author felt strongly that this would be a very risky treatment due to the possible build-up of copper in the soil and on the tree. Still, there are many preventive measures short of copper. They include pruning infected branches with sterile shears, well below the infection, efficient monitoring of the trees for symptoms, and the avoidance of excessive succulent growth caused by too much nitrogen, or heavy pruning. The worst conditions for fireblight are hot rainy weather during blossoming, followed by high humidity. Trees that are bearing their first year are most susceptible. Here at the University of Wisconsin Madison, USA, there is a plant pathologist who's last name is McManus (spelling?) who is specializing in fireblight.
*
From: "Bill Shoemaker" <wshoemak@inil.com>
Subject: Re: fireblight
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Fireblight is a bacterial disease. Pears are very susceptible. The most important issue is climatic conditions. That is why most pears in the US are grown in Oregon and California, not in other areas with higher humidity. Reducing wet foliage helps. Sanitizing pruning equipment after each cut, particularly when moving from tree to tree, will help. Using varieties and rootstocks with some tolerance for the organism will help. However, if you're not in the right climate, it is quite an uphill battle and probably not commercially feasible.
-- Bill Shoemaker Sr Research Specialist, Food Crops University of Illinois St Charles Horticulture Research Center
*
From: Leonard Coop <coopl@bcc.orst.edu>
Newsgroups: alt.agriculture.fruit
Subject: Re: fireblight
We have Tim Smith's fire blight risk prediction model, which is based on past and forecasted weather data, online at: http://osu.orst.edu/Dept/IPPC/wea/weamodpp.html
and a version where you can upload your own weather data files at:
http://ippc2.orst.edu/cgi-bin/weamodl.pl
The model was developed in Washington and is used in Oregon as well. It is unknown whether it could be of value in other locations. Len Coop
-- Leonard Coop Research Associate Entomology Dept & Integrated Plant Protection Center 2046 Cordley Oregon State University Corvallis OR 97331-2907
*
From: Allyn Weaks (allyn@u.washington.edu)
Subject: Re: Gardening for wildlife
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 1996/11/14
In article <56fj1i$nqi@linden.fortnet.org>, land3@linden.fortnet.org (Ronald E. Thomas) wrote:
> PLEASE check with your local state wildlife folks: I know that the
> russian olive is no longer recommended here in Colorado. It is an EXOTIC
> that is taking on a life of its own (ie., spreading to riparian areas and
> out-competing native species). Of course, they are being planted by
> landscapers in record numbers during the current Colorado growth "boom",
> even as close as 1.5 miles to Rocky Mountain National Park....
I'd like to strongly second this, and generalize it further. If one truly wants to garden for wildlife, try to stick to plants native to your area, and as close to your actual site as possible. One of the indicators of an exotic plant that can easily escape and cause trouble is 'beloved by birds and/or other wildlife': said birds etc. will carry the seed far and wide, infecting regions many miles away. Another danger sign in some places is 'shade tolerant'. Climate can make a big difference, and not all exotics are bad, but if one's only resource is a few of the non-localized 'gardening for wildlife' books that have become so popular, or rec.gardens with people posting from many different climates and regions, one can easily cause harm to one's environment, which is most likely the exact opposite of one's intent. Here in the northwest, holly and ivy sure do attract birds, but they are menaces to our forests. It isn't always sufficient to check with the state wildlife department; ours is still recommending holly in spite of how invasive it can be. It can take state agencies a while to catch up with what's really going on, especially as climate and habitats can change dramatically across even one state. County level Noxious Weed Control boards are probably more up to date and understand local conditions better, and if you have a watershed management division of some sort that tries to protect your drinking water supply, they might be one of your best resouces; ours arranges workshops, plant salvages, weed pulls, and habitat restoration volunteer work parties, all of which can not only help out your local parks and water supply, but teach you about good things to do for your own wildlife garden.
There are many advantages to using natives besides eliminating the risk of introducing invasive plants. In general, they are going to fit better into your climate's temperature and moisture patterns, they'll be more disease and pest resistant, and they'll be more welcome to the native wildlife you want to attract. You should also try to choose stock that comes from as near to you as you can find, both to increase it's hardiness to your own yard and to help protect the gene pool of your local varieties.
(70 more lines cut)
*
From: Pat Kiewicz (kiewicz@mail.wwnet.com)
Subject: Re: Gardening for wildlife
Newsgroups: rec.gardens
Date: 1996/11/15
I agree, you must be careful in choosing plants to attract wildlife. Many shrubs and trees that are very attactive to birds aren't native, and as the birds consume the seeds, they may be spreading destruction. Native red mulberries are threatened by non-native white mulberries (Pt. Pelee Nat'l. Park, ONT.). Nature Conservancy volunteers spend large amount of time and effort to remove glossy buckthorn from their preserves. And the list goes on and on...
The Nov/Dec issue of The Nature Conservancy's magazine has a feature article on evironmental thugs (flora and fauna). You can check them out online at:
http://www.tnc.org
I'm also planning to order a book from the Brooklyn Botanic Garden:
Invasive Plants: Weeds of the Global Garden $7.95 + $3.95 S/H Brooklyn Botanic Garden 1000 Washington Ave. Brooklyn NY 11225
99% of the weeds I've identified in my yard are non-native plants.
Pat in Plymouth MI
top of page